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Just wanting to see if anyone else has had the issue? Just around 6,500 miles and cylinder 2 has completely stopped working. Hyundai hasn’t been able to tell why this has happened as of yet.
Blown Engine
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5,167 Posts
Nope no one here. It's Hyundai's problem. There's always more to the story, which you haven't begun to extrapolate on. Maybe, you ought to consider telling the full story first. The engine just didn't pack up and stop operating.
It could be one or a number of issue. More than likely, bent valves. Hyundai will figure it out and see if it's a warranted claim. I can tell you if you missed a gear, then downshifted into a lower gear by accident and overwhelmed the rev-limiter, they be able to tell as soon as look at the ECU logs. I truly hope this did happen but we won't know till you tell us everything leading up to the actual issue.
Last time I heard this happening, an owner did just this^ above and posted it on the N-Car Forum. He got lucky and Hyundai replaced the motor.
It could be one or a number of issue. More than likely, bent valves. Hyundai will figure it out and see if it's a warranted claim. I can tell you if you missed a gear, then downshifted into a lower gear by accident and overwhelmed the rev-limiter, they be able to tell as soon as look at the ECU logs. I truly hope this did happen but we won't know till you tell us everything leading up to the actual issue.
Last time I heard this happening, an owner did just this^ above and posted it on the N-Car Forum. He got lucky and Hyundai replaced the motor.
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36 Posts
VelosterN-Ed, you state,"Just around 6,500 miles and cylinder 2 has completely stopped working." Do you mean the cylinder is wasted, as in no compression? Or do you mean one of your ignition coils stopped working, and #2 cylinder has stopped firing? Because, if it's your coil, then it's not a big deal...just replace the coil, and everything is good.
Please clarify.
Please clarify.
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2,111 Posts
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I've got over 4k and mine doesn't skip a beat.
The other question I have is, well there are too many to list. I would love to read the honest explicit "Car-o-graphy" leading up to the issue.
Like I said Ed, I hope you just need an ignition coil.
The other question I have is, well there are too many to list. I would love to read the honest explicit "Car-o-graphy" leading up to the issue.
Like I said Ed, I hope you just need an ignition coil.
I get similar very vague statements when people tell me their computer "just stopped working".
One of the more recent ones was brought into my office unable to boot. She told us it had overheated because it was "left in the sun".
Okay... Was it powered on while in the sun?
No.
Hmmmm, was it in a hot car?
No.
Okay... So we're in northern Minnesota, where a "hot" day is about 90 degrees in the middle of August. Not hot enough to cook a powered off computer, and never seen one left in a car be overheated.
So I crack it open and immediately see a stain where some liquid had been poured on it. Flip it over and remove the bottom cover, big pool of viscous liquid remnants on the CPU.
Sniff it... It's sunblock. (I'm a ginger, I have an intimate relationship with sunblock)
So, uh... How'd you get sunblock inside the computer?
I didn't!
Well, someone did....
So she's a mental health professional for the client I am stationed at three days a week, so we just hand her a new laptop, transfer her hard drive over, and she's up and running.
Several months later... I'm on an emergency virus removal working till 10:30 one night and I get to her new computer.
Open it up, big stain across the screen and into the keyboard.
Sniff...
Sunblock.
Some people can't be taught.
So, long story and all, but mechanics have to get the same stuff.
It just stopped running.
What were you doing when it happened.
I dunno, nothing....
Now, nothing against the original poster. Perhaps one of the valve retainers wasn't secured properly. Maybe a cam cap wasn't fastened. They're under warranty for a reason. Just saying the odds aren't favorable.
One of the more recent ones was brought into my office unable to boot. She told us it had overheated because it was "left in the sun".
Okay... Was it powered on while in the sun?
No.
Hmmmm, was it in a hot car?
No.
Okay... So we're in northern Minnesota, where a "hot" day is about 90 degrees in the middle of August. Not hot enough to cook a powered off computer, and never seen one left in a car be overheated.
So I crack it open and immediately see a stain where some liquid had been poured on it. Flip it over and remove the bottom cover, big pool of viscous liquid remnants on the CPU.
Sniff it... It's sunblock. (I'm a ginger, I have an intimate relationship with sunblock)
So, uh... How'd you get sunblock inside the computer?
I didn't!
Well, someone did....
So she's a mental health professional for the client I am stationed at three days a week, so we just hand her a new laptop, transfer her hard drive over, and she's up and running.
Several months later... I'm on an emergency virus removal working till 10:30 one night and I get to her new computer.
Open it up, big stain across the screen and into the keyboard.
Sniff...
Sunblock.
Some people can't be taught.
So, long story and all, but mechanics have to get the same stuff.
It just stopped running.
What were you doing when it happened.
I dunno, nothing....
Now, nothing against the original poster. Perhaps one of the valve retainers wasn't secured properly. Maybe a cam cap wasn't fastened. They're under warranty for a reason. Just saying the odds aren't favorable.
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130 Posts
Every single one of these cars is made the same. The engine in question.... Yeah there's more to the story or else all of them would be having issues and failing. Certainly at such low miles. Products usually die within a very short period of they are defective.
Most of the time people create there own issues and kill thier own car. A post like this is a forum sometimes becomes a record of what happened (or so they hope).
I hope the OP is the exception and gets warranty coverage for the issue. But I'd like to know the whole story.
Most of the time people create there own issues and kill thier own car. A post like this is a forum sometimes becomes a record of what happened (or so they hope).
I hope the OP is the exception and gets warranty coverage for the issue. But I'd like to know the whole story.
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5,167 Posts
Paul Harvey used to say; and now " the rest of the story!!" We're definately waiting for the rest of the story!!
I realize stuff happens but generally, it's operator malfunction. Now, I'm not saying this is the case here for sure but I would like to hear the truth and nothing but the truth, from both sides (OP and Hyundai).
Keep in mind, there are also people who like to become members to post stories like this. Primarily, to see if they can get a rise out of owners. There are some legitimate issues but until all sides of the story are heard, it's a moot point. Let's see if the OP will offer up the full story as it occurred.
Mind you, this story sounds awfully familiar to me as well.
I realize stuff happens but generally, it's operator malfunction. Now, I'm not saying this is the case here for sure but I would like to hear the truth and nothing but the truth, from both sides (OP and Hyundai).
Keep in mind, there are also people who like to become members to post stories like this. Primarily, to see if they can get a rise out of owners. There are some legitimate issues but until all sides of the story are heard, it's a moot point. Let's see if the OP will offer up the full story as it occurred.
Mind you, this story sounds awfully familiar to me as well.
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5,167 Posts
OOPS, That'll do it!!
One way or the other the truth will come out. Knew this sounded far too familiar.😉Who, you talkin to Willis, the OP :grin:If this it's the same owner, it's bent valves and a bit more..............................................................................a deafening silence ensues
Or, as we say in the industry -- PEBKAC.
As for the money shifts; i.e., incorrect downshifts that force you to shift your money to your mechanic, are there tips&tricks that folks can follow to avoid them? For example, maybe use auto-rev match and the car will yell at you before you release the clutch? It's still a rather short period of time if you're rowing fast, but what else is there?
Now I've never driven on a track event, and I can sort of see the possibility for a missed shift, or more precisely an incorrect shift, but I still have trouble with the overall concept.
I'm by no means an expert, and experience does not equate competence either. From my personal experience though, being mechanically minded, liking to know how things work, how to make them work efficiently, etc, I have yet to accidentally put a car in the wrong gear since I started driving manual transmission cars in 1994. I don't know if I'm just lucky (probably) or because I know where the shift lever goes, and not to fight any extra pressure, but I just don't understand going from say 5th to 1st (which should be VERY hard due to the synchronizers) or 6th to 2nd, something like that. I just don't see an extreme overrev happening in other gears as redline in 2nd is approximately 60mph, so 3rd can easily handle nearly any 60mph or higher downshift (and if you're dropping from say, 6th to 3rd at 130mph, there are more issues than just your shifting you need to worry about in my opinion).
****, just this morning I had my RSX up past 80mph passing a line of cars doing 45 in a 55 on a clear, flat road and I still had 700rpm before I hit the redline. Can't recall the gearing on the PP off the top of my head (my pdf with the ratios is on my home computer) so I can't do the math handily) but I'd be willing to bet that the PP can handle going into 3rd up just past 80mph at least (will fact check later), and I'd assume someone would only do that while braking for a curve, so it just seems like doing that, especially on the street, would be a lack of experience thing more than anything else.
No intended insult to anyone who's ever done it either. As I said, maybe I am just ridiculously lucky to have never done it.
Gotcha. The old FnF "power shift".
I was teaching my brother in law to drive manual. He kept stomping the clutch pedal and jamming it into gear. No no no no no... Just relax. This isn't a movie, we don't need to make it dramatic. Clutch is a lever, not an on/off button, shifter is going to shift gently if you're nice to it.
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117 Posts
I drove semi's for over 8 years, and I can tell you I have missed a lot of shifts. Just the nature of the beast with a manual transmission. Nobody is perfect. But the "N" can handle a little abuse. Now I don't recommend floating the gears like you can in semi truck, where you don't use the clutch at all. That might cause some issues. But the "N" will come out of gear with no clutch if you give the car a little gas and pull on the shifter at the sametime it come's smooth out of gear. But you can't blimp the gas to put it in gear without the clutch though. What a bummer..ha. Yes I know there is a huge difference in transmissions. Ha. But still would be fun to "float" gears in the N.
Semi's have much higher gear counts than a passenger car though don't they? I can totally understand missing a gear in one of those.
"Floating" is also called compression shifting. If done properly, no damage will occur. It's essentially double clutching without using the clutch. You push out of the gear you're in right after lifting the throttle so the transmission is not under immediate load, then while in neutral you match the RPM your car will be at for the next chosen gear and it should slide right in, no grinding, no muss, no fuss.
Not an "ideal" way to change gears as it is much more time consuming than using the clutch, but it is engaging and show-offy. I had a 1985 Mercury Cougar XR-7 that lost the pin that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch cable and had to be told how to do it by my uncle's car restoring friend. After minimal practice I had it down pat, only issue was a dead stop as it was difficult to start the car in gear being a 2.3L Turbo 4. Was fun though. I can do it, but I prefer not to as there's just no real advantage to it.
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117 Posts
Oh yes semi's have a higher gear count. Usually either 10 or 18 gears. I know in Arkansas you will not pass the driving portion of the exam without knowing how to float gears. They like to see you use the clutch method because its way harder than floating. But you have to understand the mechanics of shifting a semi to be able to float. Floating saves the left leg in traffic!!! And that one thing I hate with my N is traffic.
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