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Discussion Starter #1
Sup Guys!

Im pretty new on the forum and ive had my VN for about 3 months now. So far I have an aftermarket forge intake and and afe Takeda midpipe and soon to be axel back. I may not have access to a lift this time around so i was wandering if you guys had any tips on how to install the axel-back if any of you have taken it off before, Like tools necessary, best places to jack the car (manual does not offer much info) and basically any advice so i don't screw anything up.

P.S. Its a performance package without the valve motor.

Thanks in advance!
 

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You can do an axle back with just a pair of jack stands; no need to get too far under the car. Chock the front wheels and lift up the back. There should be a pinch weld running the length of the body, behind the side skirt. There will be a strong point near the wheels for the jack and stands to rest. Put down an old towel or something for you to lie on, get out your socket set and slide on under. WD-40 and a flathead screwdriver for the hangers. You'll be done within the hour.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You can do an axle back with just a pair of jack stands; no need to get too far under the car. Chock the front wheels and lift up the back. There should be a pinch weld running the length of the body, behind the side skirt. There will be a strong point near the wheels for the jack and stands to rest. Put down an old towel or something for you to lie on, get out your socket set and slide on under. WD-40 and a flathead screwdriver for the hangers. You'll be done within the hour.
Thanks for the advice on the wheel blocks and where to put the jack stands. My dad almost lost an arm when his GLI dropped into place on a jack and it scared the hell outa me so since then ive always been extra cautious with everything underneath the car.
 

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There is always some risk involved putting yourself under ~3000 lbs of car; but life would be boring if we didn't. My thoughts are to make sure there is always two independent measures keeping a car jacked properly. Have the stands and also leave the jack under the car too; just in contact no need for pressure. Another option is to put a wheel under the frame; anything taller than the cars regular ride height. I think a lot of the safety comes with paying attention to what you do with the car while it's jacked. Wrenching with a 3 ft. breaker bar on something is going to move more than just the bolt, it could upset the cars balance. I tend to be a little less brutish with things when working underneath a car to not risk any unwanted movements. Best of luck with it all and I hope the new exhaust sounds fantastic!
 

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I suggest getting a clamp of sorts or maybe even a specialized tool to remove the hangers from the rubber isolation. The midpipe was fairly easy to take off, but damn those muffler hangers. They are on tight. Get some short bungie cords to hold the axle back too. I started with the middle hanger, then either of the two side hangers.

Btw, I just finishing installing the afe catback exhaust system. Does you midpipe section sag slightly compared to the rest of the exhaust? Specifically at the bends right before the muffler. Mine doesn't sit flat with the rest of the exhaust. Maybe an inch lower?
 

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Btw, I just finishing installing the afe catback exhaust system. Does you midpipe section sag slightly compared to the rest of the exhaust? Specifically at the bends right before the muffler. Mine doesn't sit flat with the rest of the exhaust. Maybe an inch lower?
Try adjusting the connecting point shown below. Loosen the clamp and raise the joint towards the cars belly, then tighten. There may need to be a slight angle put into the "flatness" of the exhaust at this point because the two supporting hangers a so far away.
exhaust.png
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The install went well, thank you both for the advice! I did not losen the clamp connecting to the mid pipe but that may be why the fitting is slight off? i wanna post a video of the exhaust sound. so far a lot of people really enjoy the sound however there is a pretty bad drone in normal mode which is really disappointing. so buyer beware
 

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Try adjusting the connecting point shown below. Loosen the clamp and raise the joint towards the cars belly, then tighten. There may need to be a slight angle put into the "flatness" of the exhaust at this point because the two supporting hangers a so far away.
View attachment 2968
I actually did adjusted like that. Used a bottle jack to raise the exhaust, but I raised it just after that clamp. I'll try rotating the 90 elbow a little more.
 

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so far a lot of people really enjoy the sound however there is a pretty bad drone in normal mode which is really disappointing. so buyer beware
I'm glad the install went well. Sorry to hear about the drone. Is it just at a particular engine rpm or constant throughout the rpm range?
 

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Super. Yeah, just let that joint take out some of the sag.
Sags less now, but not quite flat. Maybe half an inch sag. My other issue is the uneven exhaust tips. Left side is lower than the right. About an inch gap on the left, and less than 1/4" on the right.
 

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Sags less now, but not quite flat. Maybe half an inch sag. My other issue is the uneven exhaust tips. Left side is lower than the right. About an inch gap on the left, and less than 1/4" on the right.
You fix one thing and another problem comes along. These adjustments cause a domino effect. Loosen the nearest clamp to the tips and wiggle them into position; then tighten again. Same fix as before really. I guess you probably want half an inch on both, or something a little less?
 

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If they're even and not touching the bumper, that's good enough for me. I doubt the outer edge of the tips will get hot enough to melt the plastic, but just in case ya know? Ideally I want the radius of the bumper and the tip to be concentric. I'll adjust it later though. Thanks.
 

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Yep, those rolled tips are good for not melting the bumper. I'm sure it will be really satisfying having the fitment just right. I just takes time and a crawling around on the floor; something that can wait for another day.
Having thought about it, I'd feel bad not saying and then something happening. From what you describe, the right tip is maybe a little too close to the bumper. I don't know how much the exhaust moves around on this car, but under throttle exhausts tend to flex in their hangers. It may look ok in the driveway, but driving or going over a pothole could put it in contact with the bumper. Better safe than sorry and lower that one if you can, make the fitment right another day.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm glad the install went well. Sorry to hear about the drone. Is it just at a particular engine rpm or constant throughout the rpm range?
Its okay I knew the risks! the only time it does not drone is 6th gear at low rpms like 1800-2000 crawling around 40 mph i believe. once you get higher it starts to drone.
 

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That was something to do with one of Harbor Freight's products (could have been other retailers too). It was with their cheapest-of-the-cheap stands with poor casting quality. The teeth in the locking mechanism were too small and rounded to bite the pin properly. On top of that, the arm of unit was very loose in it's base which meant the thing would just collapse with very little movement popping it out of a locked position. Fortunately, they do offer a revised design that seems much safer and is a free exchange.
 

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I'm thinking about getting just the axel back portion.

The midpipe and stock midpipe look too similar as shown in the photos below.. I know that's not scientific but still. The muffler sizes are drastically different which is the only thing I'm looking at.

The afe takeda axelback is alone is around $850 . I think you lose the factory variable exhaust valves as well... Oof

I came across an anomaly of an exhaust for the VN, the Remus Exhaust, it's actually built for the i30n and requires some modifications to make it fit the VN.
벨로스터N 레무스 배기음 Veloster N Remus Exhaust




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3018
3019
 

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If you want to retain the valves, it is my understanding that Borla will be joining the market soon with an exhaust that keeps them. They may offer a axle-back version, but most likely cat-back. It's going to be 3" all the way. Magnaflow also has a cat-back on the way, but they haven't given many details.
 
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