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This past sunday:


I'm in STU btw.

Definitely going to be taking the rear bar to it's tightest setting, I feel there isn't enough rotation on corner entry since the addition of the 4pt brace. Also going to add more negative camber up front.

My RT615s are almost done for, debating on going to a 255 re71r or rt660s, not sure just yet. Leaning towards the 660s for a little more life out of them and the fact I've had a good experience on the 615s.
 

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Going up on the rear bar would work a little better. But the one thing that helps is braking while turning. If you're still new to autox, I wouldn't try it yet. Currently practicing this myself for this year and it makes a huge difference in how the car handles.

This past weekend was great for me. Number one thing I was focused on was getting my consistency back up as it was terrible the previous event I went to. Happy to say I'm driving consistently again and started to focus on my driving on going faster like practicing braking while turning. Finally got a good feel for the car and the 24mm bar with the SPL Parts end links didn't disappoint. Raised the rear psi from 42 to 45 cold and never checked up on it. Front, I set it to 34 psi cold and let it get to 37-38 hot. If I even let out a single psi, the tires would roll over too far. This time, I had water to spray down the tires and that helps out a ton with consistency. My slaloms are very ridiculous now compared to last year when I had issues getting the car to turn in fast enough as it would just understeer as I start attacking the next cone. Because of it, I'd have to slow down but now, I barely slow down and all it needs is just a tap of the brake around the first cone and then my foot is on the gas. Overall, not a bad weekend. Managed to keep up with the SCCA NATS drivers and give the locals a shock.
 

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Nice driving, guys! Keep up the good work!

Best regards,

-Mike
 
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Nice driving, guys! Keep up the good work!

Best regards,

-Mike
Thanks. Will try my best at every event.

It's been a while but I did a few events since. One of them was the Peru Champ Tour and oh my. They had a very fast course setup. I've heard of national level events, like the Champ Tours, Pro Solo and Nationals, are fast but this kind of speed, I wasn't ready for. For one thing, a 24mm rear bar is A LOT of bar for the speed out there and my original 38F/48R tire pressures were not ideal at all. Although one thing I learned is a higher front tire pressure will help a lot with initial turn in. Even from 38 to 40 was a noticeable difference. Some of the Civic Si guys were running 42-44 fronts. This was done on day 2 of the event where I should've also lowered my rears from 48 to maybe 38 to help with rear end stability, especially on the last run. But I really didn't want to change the way the car handled since I was already used to these tire pressures and the way it was currently handling. Should've done it though as that rear end getting too loose on my last run costed me that 0.5 sec and I would've taken the win.

Otherwise, it was A LOT of fun. You only get 3 runs per day to get it right and it puts quite a lot of pressure on oneself. Really happy with my results and my 2nd place behind another N that was there. He still had the stock rear bar in and with the course speeds, his car was a lot easier to control. This event definitely has me thinking differently on tire pressures now as I feel like I need to start from scratch on learning ideal tire pressures again.
 

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I did a track sprint at Pocono back in May and a local SCCA autocross double header last weekend. Car is still the same as last year, Pipercross filter, alignment, and Enkei/A052, rest stock. I've settled on 35F and 37R hot pressures with my alignment and tire. Car is easy to drive fast, especially in slaloms.

255/40-18 A052 no longer rub as the outer shoulders are now round however they did clearance the front fenders themselves initially. Tires still have excellent grip after 80+ runs last year and sitting in bags all winter. Look almost like slicks now. I want to milk them until the end of the year but if I can't, I'm changing to a 255/35-18 A052.

Replaced the brake fluid with Motul RBF 660 and will be changing pads soon. OEM are pretty good though and perform well if bedded correctly. Cold bite could be better.

For me, the most annoying part of the car is the lack of the feel for clutch engagement.

Still get the annoying beeping warning occasionally under extremely hard braking. Can't seem to find the time to read the display message though while it is happening. I suspect ice mode or overrev protection for a seemingly catastrophic downshift.
 

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I did a track sprint at Pocono back in May and a local SCCA autocross double header last weekend. Car is still the same as last year, Pipercross filter, alignment, and Enkei/A052, rest stock. I've settled on 35F and 37R hot pressures with my alignment and tire. Car is easy to drive fast, especially in slaloms.

255/40-18 A052 no longer rub as the outer shoulders are now round however they did clearance the front fenders themselves initially. Tires still have excellent grip after 80+ runs last year and sitting in bags all winter. Look almost like slicks now. I want to milk them until the end of the year but if I can't, I'm changing to a 255/35-18 A052.

Replaced the brake fluid with Motul RBF 660 and will be changing pads soon. OEM are pretty good though and perform well if bedded correctly. Cold bite could be better.

For me, the most annoying part of the car is the lack of the feel for clutch engagement.

Still get the annoying beeping warning occasionally under extremely hard braking. Can't seem to find the time to read the display message though while it is happening. I suspect ice mode or overrev protection for a seemingly catastrophic downshift.
Typically, that beep is if you have rev-matching on and downshift into a gear that will put the revs too high.

Had a great time yesterday and the course was lot of fun, it was long but didn't lend itself to momentum. Definitely have room to improve in there, but the car did great and I had some fun messing with the ECS suspension controller.

 

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For me, the most annoying part of the car is the lack of the feel for clutch engagement.

Still get the annoying beeping warning occasionally under extremely hard braking. Can't seem to find the time to read the display message though while it is happening. I suspect ice mode or overrev protection for a seemingly catastrophic downshift.
I know the clutch slave has a clutch delay valve in it but it isn't easily removable since the slave is inside the trans housing. I did a clutch delay valve delete on my Civic Si and it was a world of difference in clutch feel and engagement. If I ever have to replace the clutch, I'm going to find out how to delete that delay valve.

Yeah I'd get a GoPro on the dash at that point to see what it is. Could be a faulty sensor not liking the hard Gs from braking.
 

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Hey folks, I'm in! Thanks for this thread; there's not a lot of info out there otherwise!

Is there an established "N Custom" setup I can copy or do I just turn everything up to 11? (no rear bar - yet, 255/40/18 RE71s, 1/8 toe Fr 0 R).

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Hey folks, I'm in! Thanks for this thread; there's not a lot of info out there otherwise!

Is there an established "N Custom" setup I can copy or do I just turn everything up to 11? (no rear bar - yet, 255/40/18 RE71s, 1/8 toe Fr 0 R).

View attachment 3189
Welcome! I typically keep everything in sport+ except for steering and dampers for autox, I set the steering to normal and the dampers to sport. Sport+ the rebound is set incorrectly imo, especially the rear, and it can really upset the chassis on rough surfaces.
 

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Welcome! I typically keep everything in sport+ except for steering and dampers for autox, I set the steering to normal and the dampers to sport. Sport+ the rebound is set incorrectly imo, especially the rear, and it can really upset the chassis on rough surfaces.
Thanks! I was wondering if Sport+ was too stiff for our favored lot at Packwood!
 

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Hey folks, I'm in! Thanks for this thread; there's not a lot of info out there otherwise!

Is there an established "N Custom" setup I can copy or do I just turn everything up to 11? (no rear bar - yet, 255/40/18 RE71s, 1/8 toe Fr 0 R).
Welcome. For sure, you'll end up needing a rear bar but depends how you want the car to handle. I know some that are running 235/40/18 71Rs with the stock bar and they currently like the way the car handles for both track and autox duty. Otherwise, I'm currently running the 24mm Whiteline bar with SPL Parts end links and have contemplated adjusting it to the stiffest setting. Must have flexed the bar out enough because it feels different than when I first put it in. But hey, it's what they say about racing FWD cars. Loose rear is fast.

Tires, don't do 255/40/18. Me and another person here had (and he still uses) this size tire and it rubs the inside fender. The tires are just too tall at 26". I'm running 265/35/18 71Rs (25.3" tall) with no rubbing whatsoever. The tires are wide and do poke out but the front suspension will hit the bumpstops before you end up rubbing.

As for N Custom, everything is maxed out except exhaust and and steering. I turned off the popcorn sound as it got to the point where it was annoying while I'm trying to concentrate on where to position my car. Steering is in normal because I literally chuck my wheel around left and right really fast.

I played around with the suspension setting and have stuck with the stiffest setting. The car would spin out all the time in the middle setting and Normal was just uncontrollable. The rear dampening is too soft in those other settings so the front end can never bite. Currently waiting until the SCCA Solo committee changes a certain rule to let use a dampener controller so I could set the front end to Sport and the rear end to Sport+. I think that'll be more ideal to a great handling N for autox. Probably won't even need a rear bar at all with a controller since the controller that's out for our car has a lot of room for adjustments and even custom auto-adjustments.
 

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The 255/40/18s are on 45 offset wheels left over from a previous ride and they rub even on a rough road! I'll have to buy something legal before next season ...

Thanks for the details @Piro Fyre
 

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First event in the books; the car is a hoot and feels half the size of the Type R. But it'll be an uphill battle. (For contrast, my first Type R event)

VN is a lot easier to drive -- it doesn't mind being slapped around a bit. No surprise that gearing is an issue. Key for me will be learning to treat it like a momentum car ...
 

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I need to replace the battery on my 2020 N-PP. If I'm reading the SCCA street rules correctly, I can't do anything that reduces weight. I'm assuming that includes going to a lithium battery? I hate to spend $280 on a new battery when a Antigravity lithium is $320
 

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Texas NT results. Three national champs in the pack (Scroggs and the Reynosos), plus some talented also-rans, so a pretty good barometer. Mark fastest by nearly a second each day, but second fastest both days was a VN as well (Brady day 1 and me day 2). Good course for the car, more of a track-cross and pretty much all slaloms, which the VN ate up.

Scroggs will add something to his YouTube channel later this week.

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