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So what is the consensus for alignment settings without doing camber bolts or plates to stay in D street? A post in this thread said front 1/8" out and rear 1/8" out. I'm assuming thats a typo and we should shoot for front 1/8" out and rear 1/8" in? I thought you only go toe in on the rear with RWD's and and FWD stay 0" rear? And I'm guessing for camber I just have them max it out front and rear? I've done the first few autox's on factory rubber, but Enkie VR5 18x8 rims and 245/40 RE71's will be here next week. Also just installed Whiteline 24mm rear bar on the soft setting, but with factory links. Any help for the pros is greatly appreciated. This thread has some great info.
 

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I'd keep toe neutral in the back. Could do a bit of toe out but at that point its also about how much you want to deal with wear and tramlining on the street.

Camber just max out the front, rears I'd do maximum 0.5 more negative. Its probably gonna look somehing like -1.0F, -1.5R.
 

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I just got a new alignment today and the most camber they could get in front was -.9. The rear they were able to get the -1.5. I had them do 1/8" toe out front and 0 toe rear. I'll run it tomorrow at Utah Motorsports Campus and report back on the difference since I just ran there last wednesday as well.
 

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I just got a new alignment today and the most camber they could get in front was -.9. The rear they were able to get the -1.5. I had them do 1/8" toe out front and 0 toe rear. I'll run it tomorrow at Utah Motorsports Campus and report back on the difference since I just ran there last wednesday as well.
How'd it like the extra toe out up front?
 

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Welcome. For sure, you'll end up needing a rear bar but depends how you want the car to handle. I know some that are running 235/40/18 71Rs with the stock bar and they currently like the way the car handles for both track and autox duty. Otherwise, I'm currently running the 24mm Whiteline bar with SPL Parts end links and have contemplated adjusting it to the stiffest setting. Must have flexed the bar out enough because it feels different than when I first put it in. But hey, it's what they say about racing FWD cars. Loose rear is fast.

Tires, don't do 255/40/18. Me and another person here had (and he still uses) this size tire and it rubs the inside fender. The tires are just too tall at 26". I'm running 265/35/18 71Rs (25.3" tall) with no rubbing whatsoever. The tires are wide and do poke out but the front suspension will hit the bumpstops before you end up rubbing.

As for N Custom, everything is maxed out except exhaust and and steering. I turned off the popcorn sound as it got to the point where it was annoying while I'm trying to concentrate on where to position my car. Steering is in normal because I literally chuck my wheel around left and right really fast.

I played around with the suspension setting and have stuck with the stiffest setting. The car would spin out all the time in the middle setting and Normal was just uncontrollable. The rear dampening is too soft in those other settings so the front end can never bite. Currently waiting until the SCCA Solo committee changes a certain rule to let use a dampener controller so I could set the front end to Sport and the rear end to Sport+. I think that'll be more ideal to a great handling N for autox. Probably won't even need a rear bar at all with a controller since the controller that's out for our car has a lot of room for adjustments and even custom auto-adjustments.
Update:

I am running my second set of 255/40-18 A052's this season. The first set wore very well in 2 years with over 100 runs and a track sprint on them but I do rotate after every event. I suspect that and my rear camber helps keep wear pretty even The outside edge corded before I got around to flipping them but they were well into the wear bars. The next set I buy I am going to go 25.5" diameter or less but still with A052.

Other than tires/wheels, pipercross filter, brake fluid, and alignment my 2019 PP car is stock. I run it in standard N mode with ESC full off for events.

I have figured out what the crazy beeping was - downshift overrev warning.

I probably have over 200+ runs on this car now, 19,000+ miles, and have had 0 problems. May need new pads and rotors this winter. Has not been back to the Dealer since I drove it off the lot. Good job Hyundai.
 

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Update:

I am running my second set of 255/40-18 A052's this season. The first set wore very well in 2 years with over 100 runs and a track sprint on them but I do rotate after every event. I suspect that and my rear camber helps keep wear pretty even The outside edge corded before I got around to flipping them but they were well into the wear bars. The next set I buy I am going to go 25.5" diameter or less but still with A052.

Other than tires/wheels, pipercross filter, brake fluid, and alignment my 2019 PP car is stock. I run it in standard N mode with ESC full off for events.

I have figured out what the crazy beeping was - downshift overrev warning.

I probably have over 200+ runs on this car now, 19,000+ miles, and have had 0 problems. May need new pads and rotors this winter. Has not been back to the Dealer since I drove it off the lot. Good job Hyundai.
This is awesome info. I'm running full stock wheels and tires this season on my 2021 DCT but will do wheels and tires for next season. What wheels/specs are you running?
 

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This is awesome info. I'm running full stock wheels and tires this season on my 2021 DCT but will do wheels and tires for next season. What wheels/specs are you running?
If you want to run Street class, you can do 18x8 (can downsize or upsize but need the same width), but I dont remember what the offset limit is, I'm thinking +-7mm vs OE.
 

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This is awesome info. I'm running full stock wheels and tires this season on my 2021 DCT but will do wheels and tires for next season. What wheels/specs are you running?
18x8 Enkei TS-10

Having the Yok's flipped this week. Two more events for this year. Last week's event had it in the 2nd gear rev limiter pretty hard. Tried third in a few spots but it threw off the mojo.

May experiment with front or rear bar for next year or possibly shorter diameter tire to get the car lower.
 
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