Hi guys, new to the forum and new to the Veloster N. My 2020 VN is on order, (Canadian edition so = PP), and was just curious if anyone here is using a piggy back tune such as racechips or any of the other ones? Any issues, problems, comments, suggestions on these systems? Thanks!
Anyone using Racechips or piggyback system?
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Using the GTS also,
Run 93 and aftermarket plugs, wideband AFR and boost gauge going on next week. Noticeable difference; i'd wager around 20HP with alot more torque throughout band. Feels less squishy. Far cry from their numbers; but expected. Will head to dyno shop in next couple of months to get some real numbers.
Some raw notes:
1. The first time I went out it lean popped; car was only on for 10-15mins and was extremely cold out. Not sure if it was traction control doing stuff with a wheel hop or an actual lean pop / stagger. Currently very cold in my area (10F-20F). Scared the crap out of me. I know very little about these motors; so not sure if there is a learn cycle needed before tromping on it. What type of detonation detection; and safeguards built in. Coming from STI world; makes me cringe a bit.
2. The Bluetooth didn't work at first, had to cycle phone and chip a couple times. Concerned on future Bluetooth issues; we shall see.
3. Install was dead simple; 10-15mins.
4. Check first page on manual for the serial number (needed for the APP enablement). For me it was a real RTFM moment. If your an iphone user; might want to be wary; lots of issues on forums/reviews.
5. Not exactly sure how N mode vs eco mode works with it. Seems to still work, i guess...
Dyno results on youtube:
Overall; for 600 or so bucks; hard to go wrong.
Run 93 and aftermarket plugs, wideband AFR and boost gauge going on next week. Noticeable difference; i'd wager around 20HP with alot more torque throughout band. Feels less squishy. Far cry from their numbers; but expected. Will head to dyno shop in next couple of months to get some real numbers.
Some raw notes:
1. The first time I went out it lean popped; car was only on for 10-15mins and was extremely cold out. Not sure if it was traction control doing stuff with a wheel hop or an actual lean pop / stagger. Currently very cold in my area (10F-20F). Scared the crap out of me. I know very little about these motors; so not sure if there is a learn cycle needed before tromping on it. What type of detonation detection; and safeguards built in. Coming from STI world; makes me cringe a bit.
2. The Bluetooth didn't work at first, had to cycle phone and chip a couple times. Concerned on future Bluetooth issues; we shall see.
3. Install was dead simple; 10-15mins.
4. Check first page on manual for the serial number (needed for the APP enablement). For me it was a real RTFM moment. If your an iphone user; might want to be wary; lots of issues on forums/reviews.
5. Not exactly sure how N mode vs eco mode works with it. Seems to still work, i guess...
Dyno results on youtube:
Overall; for 600 or so bucks; hard to go wrong.
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Lean Pop, really?? I not sure what you're experiencing but it's not lean pop. The AFR's for the VN are way fat off of idle, all the way thru mid range to nearly 6K, even with a piggyback tuner and one that can adjust the AFR's as well. The GTS isn't equipped with this capability. With the RaceChip, even on it's most aggressive map setting, it won't produce anywhere near a lean condition.
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Oh by the way, this is Garage Lines dyno and not indicative of every result. There are no reported problems/issues with the iPhone app either. Care to share a few links regarding the VN?
Oh by the way, this is Garage Lines dyno and not indicative of every result. There are no reported problems/issues with the iPhone app either. Care to share a few links regarding the VN?
hmmm, Interesting,
AFR wideband going in next week along; I'll grab some odb2 logs after install; curious on what its doing. Need to finish up current project first (ye old silverado ss w/a LQ9).
Looking at posts; seems most of negative feedback was from racechip and not racechip++; in current state it looks like the droid one is getting more negative reviews.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.racechip.plus&hl=en_US&showAllReviews=true
Eh; bluetooth being what it is... Not always app developers fault...
AFR wideband going in next week along; I'll grab some odb2 logs after install; curious on what its doing. Need to finish up current project first (ye old silverado ss w/a LQ9).
Looking at posts; seems most of negative feedback was from racechip and not racechip++; in current state it looks like the droid one is getting more negative reviews.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.racechip.plus&hl=en_US&showAllReviews=true
Eh; bluetooth being what it is... Not always app developers fault...
Possible, have hptuner dumping ODB2 logs now on daily drive. Hasn't happened since.
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Hey Everyone, I put the RaceChip RS on today and took a test drive. I had it on a Max of 4 (out of 6 settings). The car was really responsive and it felt to actually be running a bit better with less lag. Hope this continues. Anyone have any long term chips on?
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Red, are you running the Racechip GTS Black? Im looking to purchase one.Lean Pop, really?? I not sure what you're experiencing but it's not lean pop. The AFR's for the VN are way fat off of idle, all the way thru mid range to nearly 6K, even with a piggyback tuner and one that can adjust the AFR's as well. The GTS isn't equipped with this capability. With the RaceChip, even on it's most aggressive map setting, it won't produce anywhere near a lean condition.
![]()
Oh by the way, this is Garage Lines dyno and not indicative of every result. There are no reported problems/issues with the iPhone app either. Care to share a few links regarding the VN?
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I know this is an old thread, but I have a paranoid question, and my research has been inconclusive.
What diagnostic information is shared via bluelink? I've read about other makes using piggybacks that actually reported indications of a piggyback/flash remotely and voided warranties during simple unrelated services. I'm not looking to commit any fraud and will own up if I get a piggyback and it causes a direct issue, but I'm slightly concerned about preemptive voiding of the entire warranty based off of this.
What diagnostic information is shared via bluelink? I've read about other makes using piggybacks that actually reported indications of a piggyback/flash remotely and voided warranties during simple unrelated services. I'm not looking to commit any fraud and will own up if I get a piggyback and it causes a direct issue, but I'm slightly concerned about preemptive voiding of the entire warranty based off of this.
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Good question. I’m curious now as well.
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Where did you find wideband afr? I’m getting lean codes, high air flow/so accumulation vacuum leak but only when installed w racechip
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AEM.
No, I have a proper dynamometer tune. I have several friends in I30N’s and VN’s who are or have used the Race Chips. I suggest you purchase a new unit from Race Chips USA.
I have a GTS with app for sale, I loved it, but I had to get something bigger as my kids keep growing and I rescued 2 dogs. Make me an offer?
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Sold it yet? I'm. Interested.
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I know this is an old thread but I can't find this answer anywhere. I was wondering what mode you should be in after installing the chip for optimum performance. I am new to the platform and I have a 2020 Veloster N. I bought the RS just to get a bit more power out of her to try and maximize the bolt ons I have. This may sound odd but I noticed more of a difference when being on sport then when I switched to N mode. What mode do you guys run it on or does it even make a difference?
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