I saw a comment about these DPs needing a J-bend for the lower o2 sensor to fit and not throw a code.

Yes, you will need one.

J-Style O2 Oxygen Sensor Restrictor Fitting Adjustable Gas Flow Inserts SS | eBay

1 X O2 Sensor Restrictor. -O2 Sensor Threads into female end. -Use one of the three (3) included "jets" to help fool the O2 Sensor and eliminate Check Engine Lights. -O2 sensor threads into female end.

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Also, if you used the ARP studs, did you need your star nut socket to be a deep well?

Yes, you do need a star long socket. No way around that. A regular 6 pt. will not work. Hope this helped?

Best regards,

-Mike

 

Helps a bunch. Just grabbed a 12 point deep socket and a few other things from my local parts dealer. I did already send an inquiry to afe about the j bend but still ordered one anyways. Thanks for the prompt response!

 

Thanks for the prompt response!

Your welcome.

Br,

-Mike

 

Hey all,

Been searching the forums for the past our and haven't found an exact answer so I figured I'd pollute our beautiful forums with a new thread to beat a dead horse.

I'm starting my DP install tomorrow. I've been spraying my bolts with pb blaster for 3 days now and while I felt completely prepared, today I saw a comment about these DPs needing a J-bend for the lower o2 sensor to fit and not throw a code.

Can anybody who's installed this DP confirm this? If so, can you recommend a part that hopefully Advanced Auto or O'riley will have since I don't want to wait for this part to come from Amazon to delay this painful install I've been putting off long enough.

Also, if you used the ARP studs, did you need your star nut socket to be a deep well? I only have the shorter length ones and am thinking about finding a deep well set tonight just in case. You'll need a O2 sensor wrench as well.

Much appreciated.

Yes, you'll need one to stop the DP from throwing a CEL. Either an extended sensor or one of these;
PROSPORT Mini Cat O2 Sensor CEL FIX (90°)

Hyundai and Kia Performance Specialists | KDM Tuners | PROSPORT Mini Cat O2 Sensor CEL FIX (90°)

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Vibrant 11619 J-Style Oxygen Sensor Restrictor Fitting with Adjustable Gas Flow Inserts, Oxygen - Amazon Canada

Vibrant 11619 J-Style Oxygen Sensor Restrictor Fitting with Adjustable Gas Flow Inserts in Oxygen.

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Same with the star socket as Mike has mentioned. Make sure you utilize a double nut technique when removing the OEM studs.

 

Unfortunate that afe didn't include the j-bend into their pipes but that's the way she goes.

I have a stud extractor I got from harbor freight that actually worked well in the past so I'm going try see if that'll work for these as well. If not, I will definitely use the double nut technique.

 

I also used the largest hole in the round cylinder the J-Bend came with. I have had it in for a couple weeks and NO codes. And no stored codes either. Hope this helps?

Br,

-Mike

 

Jeez, how many bolts are there keeping the cat mounted? I got the 4 bolts removed from the turbo itself and the bottom half of the DP off, but the SXTH DP install video shows them removing 1 bolt to get the cat removed and I see potentially 4 I have to remove to get it out?

 

Looks like it was just two. Got those out and the cat is loose. Just gonna try to unplug this o2 sensor so I can get out the pipe without messing with the read motor mount. So far, this has been pretty painless. Pays to use PB blaster on the bolts for a few days prior I guess. Everything's came out really easy so far. Biggest issue was yet again...the skid plate. Had to remove my nemesis to get to those lower cat mount bolts.

 

Doesn't seem I'm getting the bottom o2 sensor off before I get this pipe out. Does the motor need to be jacked up when removing the bottom rear motor mount? If so where should I position the jack to support the motor?

 

No, you can just disconnect it as long as your upper mounts are still in. Only need to jack the motor when disconnecting the upper motor/tranny mounts. You can go in through the passenger side wheel well to remove the secondary O2 sensor before dropping the cat out too.

 

Getting the O2 sensor out before removal of the pipe would have been better as I know I dinged it a few times getting it out. Unfortunately I still kept at it before waiting for a response. Here's hoping I didn't mess anything up.

 

Wow. What a PITA this install is. Mostly because I dropped the screw to the v-band and it got wedged in the subframe and was almost impossible to get out.

I am so tired I can hardly lift my neck on my own. Everything is installed....except the bottom portion of the pipe that connects via the v-band. I'm sure it's because I'm exhausted, but I hate this part of the product with a passion, it's so hard to keep the pipe in place and get the band on without dropping anything. When I attach it to the hangers it doesn't sit correctly or leave enough room for putting it on.

I'm going to take a break, anyone have any tips specifically for getting this vband on?

 

Wow. What a PITA this install is.

I have felt your pain.

Best regards,

-Mike

 

Never complete a job when you're tired, frustrated or both. Do take a break and take it up tomorrow and approach it when you're well rested.

Get an extendable magnet to retrieve the screw. You can get one at most auto parts stores.

 

I'm not frustrated, I've always disliked two piece downpipes. I didn't have this problem with the 1.6 as I had a single piece and it was much harder to do. I thought by me mentioning the hardest part being a dropped screw and the vband implied that this wasn't that difficult of an install and I was just voicing my dislike for these types of implementations.

I am going grab a bite and sit in some a/c for a bit. I got the bottom part of the downpipe held into a promising position with a jack stand, just gotta get the band on without moving it out of place...

 

Got it completed not too long ago. Changes are subtle as expected but I get some pops in the 3k range now. Overall, the install can be easy but will always be time consuming and there's plenty of issues you can encounter along the way. Like many others, my primary recommendation is to not do this alone. Thanks everyone who helped me though the process.

 

You are gonna love it on the highway!

Br,

-Mike

 

Sorry just seen this but congrats on your install. I have the AFE and 1 year in no issues without a Jbend. I bought it incase I needed it, but alas it was not needed. When you say changes are subtle. What other mods do you have? I felt a NICE difference in my downpipe install and the sound is amazing. Still congrats on the install man.

I ordered a Borla catback WAY to long ago, but it was finally delivered Wednesday and will be going on Monday.

 

Thanks a lot! I just had the forge fmic prior to this. Awaiting their inlet and intake. My high torque spare ecu tune from SXTH will be in Monday. Did a second drive tonight and am more in love with the sound but I can't feel much more on the butt dyno. This was what I expected unfortunately. People say you can feel an increase from mods alone on the 1.6t and 2.0t with bolt ons and no tune but I personally cannot. Congrats on the exhaust, it's far too expensive for me to justify for sound alone but I do prefer it over stock and wish my tune didn't "require" so many bolt ons so I could have budgeted for it. Hope you get it on soon to enjoy that beautiful sound.

 

When you get the other mods I guess this will just support them more. When I did my down pipe, I already had the Forge FMIC, AFE intake, Yames turbo inlet, AFE scorcher, and a few other things, and I felt a nice difference. But keep up the work on the mods Matt (HexMatt???) And Ill be watching your build.

 

Drive it for a week then report back. The car hasn't adjusted for the larger DP yet.

Best regards,

-Mike

 

Downpipe really opens the car up. Sxth high torque is pretty nasty with it.