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Discussion Starter #1
Like so many who own these cars, I'm a hot hatch fanatic. I bought my Performance Blue Veloster PP new a few months ago and have driven it every chance I've had just to get acquainted and see what sticks out. Now that I've put about 1500 miles on it, there is (amazingly) a laundry list of things which I do not think are acceptable for a car at this price point. Also amazingly, my extensive research of this model didn't prepare me for any of the findings except for one, and that's the first one:
  • Rough starts, especially after sitting for a day or two. This is documented pretty well by others in this forum so I halfway expected it... sort of. But it is real. I'm not sure anyone has posted any vids of it yet, so I'll do that shortly and post a link up. The car sputters for a good 2-3 seconds around 500-800 rpm on most cold starts.
  • Feeling of slight misfiring when first driving after cold start. I always keep it in normal mode and the revs low until the car warms up, but even just taking off from the driveway and giving it a little gas to get down the road is met with what I think is hesitation.
  • Paint defects found under both side mirrors, very noticeable with the right light and not so much otherwise. Didn't see it when I bought it but now I know where to look it's pretty clear. Runs in the paint.
  • Passenger side rear brake caliper sticks. This only happens when the emergency brake has been set for a while, then released on cold startup and you try to drive away but can't. You give it some gas and then it breaks free with a POW! Maybe a lube issue, we'll see. Still unacceptable for a new car.
  • Shifter is very rough compared to other cars I've had in the past few years (Focus ST, RS). It does not glide smoothly and effortlessly into gear, even on upshifts. There is almost always a bit of a crunch and on a few occasions just a flat out 'no, this is not happening' when trying to shift. And it's not operator error. Been driving straight drives for 25 years.
  • Very weak performance in anything but N mode. Even Sport mode seems weak unless you whale on it. I guess this is not so much a complaint as a surprise; I'm sure the designers were looking for a way to make the driving experience 'normal' sometimes for those that wanted it, and after all if I don't like it I can just keep it in N mode all the time.
  • They tout the BlueLink stuff at the dealership but don't tell you you can't remote start this car. Even the BlueLink app menu shows the option to remote start and when you click on it you are finally told you can't do it. All it can really do of any usefulness is lock and unlock your doors if you forget to do that and are beyond FOB range. If you're thinking of buying one of these and the sales guy starts talking about BlueLink, ask him to demonstrate the remote start feature.
Now for the good: It's a fun drive. It has an A/C that will run you out of the car it's so cold. The sound system and interface is really great.

In summary I probably won't have this long. Seems unrefined except for the performance when it's warmed up. Could I have it fixed? Sure, I could take it to the dealership and pay them to fix my new car. It'd probably take quite a bit of back-and-forth communicating with Hyundai about their crappy dealer, etc. and maybe I'd get what I want eventually. Trust me with the RS head gasket issue I'm all too familiar with design issues and getting them solved takes TIME. And money, no matter what you're told. I'll take a pass this time.
 

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Sorry to hear that. I don’t get the rough starts or misfires in my car. The paint is and has always been the biggest issue with Hyundai/Kia. They use cheap soft paint. I have gotten the brake caliper sticking every once and a while. It’s usually when it hasent been driven in a week. I don’t think the shifter is rough at all though. My first gear sometimes isn't as smooth as the rest but that’s it. I agree that everything but N mode isent very responsive but I just put it into N custom every time I drive so it doesn’t bother me.
I hope you find something you like!
 

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I've said this in other threads too, but I'm determined the throttle mapping is too conservative to the point of bizarre. Why would the car give you 50% of the power for 90% of the travel only to go beast mode for the last 10%? I don't get it, and I hope a pedal tuner can fix that.

I haven't experienced any of your other issues, but I hear your frustration and how all that compounds to sour the experience. The N is a relatively new car, we're early adopters, so I'm not too surprised, but still disappointed for you.

Whatever car you decide to go to next, hope it's a fun and fulfilling one. Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here's the brake caliper stick. You can hear me revving the engine to break away and then the snap. My 9 year-old is filming so ignore the comments and the pop scares the crap out of her.

 

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Sounds like you got all of the N’s somewhat common issues in one vehicle. rough start/misfire needs to be fixed. Not sure if fuel pump or injector or plugs but I think it’s usually one of these.

I have the stuck parking brake when parked wet, pad rusts to the rotor.

Shifting is smooth for me, could be a cable adjustment or could be more involved.

I’m surprised by people’s mention of poor throttle response. I always thought I got 80% of the power in the first half of pedal travel and wish it was more linear (In N or Sport).

The paint is soft, but I’ve not noticed any defects. I believe remote start in a manual transmission would be a big liability for them and assume it’ll be enabled on the dct model.
 

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Sorry to hear you're not enjoying your new Veloster N.
First off, it is still under warranty. Use it. If it's running rough/misfiring at cold start, it's a warranty issue. Let the dealership handle it.
Second, the brake issue is well known, and while you shouldn't have to replace brand new pads on brand new brakes, I can see a significant rust coat on those rear discs, and the pads these come with are known to stick to it like that. Replacing the rotors/pads would fix it, but apparently Hyundai hasn't changed vendors between 2019 and 2020 yet.
Shifting is another common issue, the stiffened rear motor mount is a quick install and supposedly resolves it. It particularly helps 5th and 6th gear shifts. You may need to get the shift linkage adjusted, because most people praise the shifter in the Veloster, but if it's out of adjustment, it sucks. Again, that's a warranty issue.
 

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1 and 2 are more than likely injectors/plugs. I've already had my fuel pump replaced due to P0088 and that didn't fix these issues.

I only get the sticking caliper after I wash the car so can't really help there.

Transmission is either cable adjustment or gearbox oil needs to be changed.

Bluelink is kinda strange to complain about - not being able to remote start a manual car makes sense to me. Isn't it normal to put the car into gear when parked?

I understand these are stupid issues to have but that kinda comes with the territory, no? Not to trivialize your issues but you bought the 2nd model year of a turbo 4 with a brand that has never really done performance cars before...
 

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Like so many who own these cars, I'm a hot hatch fanatic. I bought my Performance Blue Veloster PP new a few months ago and have driven it every chance I've had just to get acquainted and see what sticks out. Now that I've put about 1500 miles on it, there is (amazingly) a laundry list of things which I do not think are acceptable for a car at this price point. Also amazingly, my extensive research of this model didn't prepare me for any of the findings except for one, and that's the first one:
  • Rough starts, especially after sitting for a day or two. This is documented pretty well by others in this forum so I halfway expected it... sort of. But it is real. I'm not sure anyone has posted any vids of it yet, so I'll do that shortly and post a link up. The car sputters for a good 2-3 seconds around 500-800 rpm on most cold starts.
  • Feeling of slight misfiring when first driving after cold start. I always keep it in normal mode and the revs low until the car warms up, but even just taking off from the driveway and giving it a little gas to get down the road is met with what I think is hesitation.
  • Paint defects found under both side mirrors, very noticeable with the right light and not so much otherwise. Didn't see it when I bought it but now I know where to look it's pretty clear. Runs in the paint.
  • Passenger side rear brake caliper sticks. This only happens when the emergency brake has been set for a while, then released on cold startup and you try to drive away but can't. You give it some gas and then it breaks free with a POW! Maybe a lube issue, we'll see. Still unacceptable for a new car.
  • Shifter is very rough compared to other cars I've had in the past few years (Focus ST, RS). It does not glide smoothly and effortlessly into gear, even on upshifts. There is almost always a bit of a crunch and on a few occasions just a flat out 'no, this is not happening' when trying to shift. And it's not operator error. Been driving straight drives for 25 years.
  • Very weak performance in anything but N mode. Even Sport mode seems weak unless you whale on it. I guess this is not so much a complaint as a surprise; I'm sure the designers were looking for a way to make the driving experience 'normal' sometimes for those that wanted it, and after all if I don't like it I can just keep it in N mode all the time.
  • They tout the BlueLink stuff at the dealership but don't tell you you can't remote start this car. Even the BlueLink app menu shows the option to remote start and when you click on it you are finally told you can't do it. All it can really do of any usefulness is lock and unlock your doors if you forget to do that and are beyond FOB range. If you're thinking of buying one of these and the sales guy starts talking about BlueLink, ask him to demonstrate the remote start feature.
Now for the good: It's a fun drive. It has an A/C that will run you out of the car it's so cold. The sound system and interface is really great.

In summary I probably won't have this long. Seems unrefined except for the performance when it's warmed up. Could I have it fixed? Sure, I could take it to the dealership and pay them to fix my new car. It'd probably take quite a bit of back-and-forth communicating with Hyundai about their crappy dealer, etc. and maybe I'd get what I want eventually. Trust me with the RS head gasket issue I'm all too familiar with design issues and getting them solved takes TIME. And money, no matter what you're told. I'll take a pass this time.

The majority of those things are fixable. The rough starts and misfires are from spark plug gap. I re gapped mine when I put on the afe scorcher. The stock gap is over .30.
The manual transmission fluid needs swapped out. When you swap the fluid the magnetic plug is covered in break in metal (this should be done anyway on a new manual).
Paint is paint. Its not an audi or BMW there will be paint defects.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for everyone's comments so far. To be clear, it does not matter if the issues are fixable. This post was made to inform anyone who may be buying this car that these issues exist. NOBODY wants to pay a new car price and then have to start right in on repairs. Anyone who thinks this is as simple as rolling into the dealership and popping a warranty claim is not living in reality. You will pay to have diagnostics run at the very least, and if they don't reveal anything then it's just your word and whatever videos / pictures you can provide as proof that something is wrong. The saga will unfold from there, and many chapters will involve you without your car because it's sitting at the dealership.
As for the response about remote start being typically unavailable (but not unheard of) on manual transmission, that is true. I contend if you are retarded enough to leave your car in gear and then try to remote start it then yes, it probably is not a good idea for you to have remote start. On the engineering side of things, these cars have sensors which detect 1) whether the e-brake is set, and 2) whether the car is in gear or not. That is all that is needed to make a remote start system possible, as well as safe.
And finally, no - these issues do not come with the territory. Having spent the last 25 years in quality assurance, much of that in automotive, releasing a vehicle to market while it still has issues affecting major systems as fuel delivery and driveline is unforgivable. This forum shows these issues are not isolated to my vehicle, which means Hyundai knew about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here is the video I promised of the cold start stumble. This is a minor one, but you can hear it nonetheless.

 

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Thanks for everyone's comments so far. To be clear, it does not matter if the issues are fixable. This post was made to inform anyone who may be buying this car that these issues exist. NOBODY wants to pay a new car price and then have to start right in on repairs. Anyone who thinks this is as simple as rolling into the dealership and popping a warranty claim is not living in reality. You will pay to have diagnostics run at the very least, and if they don't reveal anything then it's just your word and whatever videos / pictures you can provide as proof that something is wrong. The saga will unfold from there, and many chapters will involve you without your car because it's sitting at the dealership.
As for the response about remote start being typically unavailable (but not unheard of) on manual transmission, that is true. I contend if you are retarded enough to leave your car in gear and then try to remote start it then yes, it probably is not a good idea for you to have remote start. On the engineering side of things, these cars have sensors which detect 1) whether the e-brake is set, and 2) whether the car is in gear or not. That is all that is needed to make a remote start system possible, as well as safe.
And finally, no - these issues do not come with the territory. Having spent the last 25 years in quality assurance, much of that in automotive, releasing a vehicle to market while it still has issues affecting major systems as fuel delivery and driveline is unforgivable. This forum shows these issues are not isolated to my vehicle, which means Hyundai knew about it.

I mean you are talking like you don't build boost and the turbo needs torn out. A slight stumble my have been acceptable to the engineers. It doesn't stall or misfire so all in all there's really nothing wrong with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I mean you are talking like you don't build boost and the turbo needs torn out. A slight stumble my have been acceptable to the engineers. It doesn't stall or misfire so all in all there's really nothing wrong with it.
You obviously didn't read the original post, I said that it misfires upon acceleration after cold start. It's a minor thing, as are all the things I document here. But still a thing potential buyers should know about.
 

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You obviously didn't read the original post, I said that it misfires upon acceleration after cold start. It's a minor thing, as are all the things I document here. But still a thing potential buyers should know about.
Very fair but that doesn't mean every N will have that problem. I never had any misfires or rough starts. I only recapped my plug because of increased boost.
 

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I my experience every single car that I have owned as had a number of "endearing qualities." When I detailed my car I got the stuck brake issue. No big deal. Expensive cars do not necessarily have better paint. A friend of mine with a Carrera 4 says it has the worst paint he has ever seen. The EPA forces manufacturers to use water-based "green" paint so it all sucks. Having said that my Gen Coupe is nearly 10 years old with over 131k miles and it still looks better than the day I picked her up. Maintenance is the key. My manual shifts fine. The first time I go into 6th often needs a bit of a push. The new RMM bushings have helped. I am pretty happy with what I have from the factory. I will do an early manual transmission fluid change and all should be good.
 

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I suspect I have some odd plugs as well. What's the deal with the stock plugs? But I went ahead to buy the ngk racing plugs with the heat range of 8 similar to the stock plugs.... But maybe with my high flow downpipe without any tune, I should've went with heat range 9?
 

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I had a pretty rough start this morning too. Not the first but certainly the most noticeable. I also have had the misfire type feeling when the engine is cold since buying it. I've mostly shrugged that one off to fluids warming up. I've also already been to the dealership and had some of the worst service I've ever experienced. I can tell that any sort of warranty claim will be 100% pulling teeth. I had better service bringing my 16 year old mitsubishi into the dealer. To be fair, the service manager did sit down and talk with me eventually but I'm not holding my breath on getting any issue fixed that isn't glaringly obvious or setting off a check engine light. To be honest, the rate at which the oil temps climbed going up elevation briefly makes me feel totally reluctant to go on long trips. Especially to LA over the mountains. With all of that being said, it's still by far the most fun car I've ever owned and I do not regret the purchase.
 

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Anyone who thinks this is as simple as rolling into the dealership and popping a warranty claim is not living in reality. You will pay to have diagnostics run at the very least, and if they don't reveal anything then it's just your word and whatever videos / pictures you can provide as proof that something is wrong.
Is that dealership specific, or a cultural issue with Korean dealerships? I'm driving a Mercedes, and I have to say while they do have you schedule appointments, when you arrive they instantly assist you, bring you coffee and offer free snacks, and even for minor things like squeaking I heard I just described it and they said they took apart most of the front to put felt on and even lubricated the pano roof to fix a squeak their tester found there even though I didn't complain about it, and I was walked over to the rental spot where I was given a rental GLC300 for the day while they were working on my car. Before that I had an Audi, and it was pretty similar where they just have their experts diagnose and fix it, and don't really bother you with any back and forth.

I'm looking for a sporty hatchback now, and was also torn between a used Focus ST, Veloster N (non-performance pack as I think the 18" would probably give a softer ride), Golf GTI Autobahn, or GLI Autobahn, and figured I'd do some reading first since with COVID its not easy to get a lot of butt time these days.
 

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Same positive experiences as Jessica with warranty work and NVH complaints with my past Audi and BMW cars. Impeccable service departments, very polite, always willing to diagnose whatever the issue might be without charging you, got a bunch done without ever having to pay a dollar. My local Mazda dealership's service department is much less luxurious, but they've also never charged for any diagnostic or warranty work whatsoever. In all cases getting a loaner meant scheduling your appointment a few days to a couple of weeks in advance depending on how busy things were, but there was always the option of a free shuttle/Uber/Lyft.

Haven't had to deal with a Hyundai service department yet, so remains to be seen...
 

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I would say it could be hit or miss. The dealer I work with has a very good service department. Although I do most of my own work there are times I turn things over to the professionals. With my dealership, warranty work has never been an issue and the work performed has always been good. Not a "luxury" experience, but that does not bother me. I have bought three cars from these guys. I do recall that they had a "Genesis" parking sign right in front. So I parked my 2011 Genesis Coupe there and wondered what they might do. Nothing but grimmances :) It was a Genesis...
 
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